Tuesday 11 June 2013

'Ye Hai Mera Karachi' - A Visit to Frere Hall

Haan! Ye Hai Mera Karachi!!!
Today I saw Karachi through someone else's eyes. There was curiosity, some subdued eagerness too, yet there was so much that said "I don't really know Karachi. I haven't seen what you claim there is. But I would like to see it through your eyes".
I meet all sorts of people everyday; indifferent, knowledgeable, arrogant, dreamers, doers, talkers and many more. However, there is one category that I truly value; those who are passionate about a cause. It would be unfair to say that it's a rare breed. If anything we have more of that crazy bunch now than ever before. I see youngsters today trying to find a direction and once they feel strongly about a certain cause, they become motivated, full of energy. I recall tragic incidents like the earthquake that hit Pakistan in 2005 and my heart fills with sorrow and grief, but then I remember how those who were unaffected united to help their brothers and sisters, regardless of class, caste or age.
I remember the floods that strike the rural areas year after year and I feel helpless for those who lose their lives, their families, their homes and their livelihoods. And then I remember the nation united again, perhaps not with the same vigour as before, but still together nevertheless. I still see many who are putting in time, energy and effort and working as individuals and also as organizations for flood affected victims.
It gives me hope! It gives me the desire to stride in the right direction! 
Coming back to what is there to see in Karachi, as is the common question posed to me often by those around me; well, there is just one answer to that - plenty! And that does not include the beach. Of course the beach is one of the first places that comes to our mind when we think of sites to see in Karachi. But there is so much more. 
Reimagining Karachi does not just intend to enable people to admire the architectural heritage; it intends to make them see first. Admiration comes after that and then the realization follows. We have beauty scattered all around us, what we call the finer things. There is art, architecture, culture, diversity, and it's for everyone. There have been several noticeable changes in the past decade. A trend of utilizing vast areas of dead space as parks and green patches is a welcome change from the drab look that we remember. Several malls have emerged providing the Karachiites loads of shopping opportunities and a place to 'hang out'. But if we are adventurous enough and curious to explore the city, there are so many beautiful, hidden gems that we overlook or are not aware of. Let's explore one place at a time. See these places through Reimagining Karachi's eyes, be part of our journey and you will discover a whole new side to Karachi.

Frere Hall
One of the most beautiful piece of architectural heritage in Karachi is Frere Hall. Not only is it an important landmark but also serves as a lovely recreation spot. Built in Venetian Gothic style, Frere Hall is surrounded by lush green gardens, which were renamed as Jinnah Gardens or Bagh-e-Jinnah after the partition. It was built in honour of Sir Henry Bartle Edward Frere. The most interesting thing that sets Bagh-e-Jinnah apart from the rest of the parks around the city is the fact that the grounds as well as the majestic Frere Hall building are visible from outside. The beauty is not hidden behind walls or thick fences which allows passersby to enjoy the view. 
Once inside, one is greeted by a plaque with Faiz Ahmed Faiz, created by Sadequain, on the left side of the lovely wooden staircase. Upstairs, a wondrous sight awaits! Sadequain's last piece of work, the amazing mural Arz-o-Samawat (earth and the heavens) adorns the ceiling upstairs. Painted on dozens of panels that are put together, it is a masterpiece dedicated to the city of Karachi and its people by Sadequain. On one of our visits, while we were being shown around by the Additional District Officer Culture, to assess damage, we observed a number of those panels detached. Rainwater has cause seepage which in turn shows increasing signs of damage to the hardboard on which the mural has been painted. The once bright colours are gradually fading and if serious measures are not taken to control the seepage, the mural will start falling apart. 
The space itself is now being used as an art gallery. 
Restoration work on Frere Hall has been carried out a number of times. However, it is lack of regular maintenance that is one of the causes for the damage. Frere Hall stayed closed for public for nearly a decade after the bombing on the US Consulate which was right across the road. After  the Consulate's relocation, Frere Hall was once again opened to public in 2011. 
If we can muster enough courage to step out of the airconditioned malls and introduce our children to art, architecture and heritage, Frere Hall is the first spot to end up at. From the spacious grounds to the fountain, from the lovely arches to the marvellous mural, it is truly a feast for the eyes.










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