Friday 5 April 2013

Early Morning Karachi...

A walk in the old neighbourhoods of Karachi might not be for the faint-hearted, but it's a joy nevertheless. The best time to explore these areas is early morning since the town starts awakening much after the sun rises. One of the biggest perks of being part of Reimagining Karachi is the fact that I get to see the real Karachi, walking around the old neighbourhoods that form an important part of history. I trail my hand on the yellow brick walls, trying to listen to the gentle murmurs, the soft whispers that are embedded in these walls. I fearlessly walk through the dense, tightly packed commercial areas in these quarters that are considered 'unsafe' by most people around me and try to merge myself in the noise, the vibe of the place. I travel through time once there, imagining myself as part of the smallish crowd that once walked down the Victoria Road, McLeod Road and Elphinstone Street. I embrace the vibrant aura that surrounds the busy bazaars and streets of my beautiful city.
Last Tuesday was another such trip that I took very early morning to avoid the morning rush and to be able to explore the city on foot. A government official from the Antiquity Department, truly sympathetic to the cause, joined me. Jehangir Kothari Building was the first on our list and what a wise choice! The landmark building still has the potential to attract a lot of attention if restored. An interesting encounter with a Parsi gentleman there revealed that the late Sir Jehangir Kothari used to sit in the offices right underneath the tower of the building. An old chowkidar who had been guarding the building for the last 37 years, in succession to his father; had more stories to tell. The once beautiful courtyard is now used to house thaylas of old clothes and other wares for safekeeping, yet it exudes a certain majestic air. The tower as the most interesting feature of the building still stands tall and the offices are now occupied by lawyers.
Our next stop was Elphinstone Street. Not much needs to be said about this once fashionable district of the city as the architecture speaks volumes itself. Old Ilaco House, Mohammad Ali Building, Nusserwanjee Building, not to forget the smaller equally interesting buildings on the same stretch. The clusters on Elphinstone street are a delight to see early morning when one can just walk down the road, enjoying the peace that there is just before the mad traffic takes over and the air fills with smoke.
As always, my early morning adventure deepened the sense of belonging to this city. I have been and always will be a true Karachiite, and I so wish for the people around me to realize the beauty it is endowed with.


Old Ilaco House




Mohammad Ali Building




2 comments:

  1. Exploring the old neighborhoods of Karachi early in the morning offers a unique experience, despite the apprehensions some may have. It's a time when the city gradually comes to life, revealing its true essence. As part of Reimagining Karachi, I have the privilege of delving into these historic areas, immersing myself in their rich heritage and vibrant atmosphere. Walking along the streets lined with yellow brick walls, I can almost hear the whispers of the past embedded within them.

    While many consider these neighborhoods 'unsafe', I fearlessly navigate through them, absorbing the energy and noise of the bustling bazaars and streets. It's like stepping back in time, imagining the hustle and bustle of Victoria Road, McLeod Road, and Elphinstone Street in their heyday. These early morning walks allow me to connect with the soul of Karachi, embracing its diverse culture and history.

    During a recent excursion, I was accompanied by a sympathetic government official from the Antiquity Department. Our first stop was the iconic Jehangir Kothari Building, a testament to Karachi's architectural heritage. Meeting a Parsi gentleman there, we learned about the building's history and its former occupants. Despite its current state of neglect, the building still exudes a majestic charm, especially its towering structure.

    Our journey continued to Elphinstone Street, where the architectural marvels like Ilaco House, Mohammad Ali Building, and Nusserwanjee Building stand as reminders of the city's glorious past. Walking through these clusters of buildings early in the morning fills me with a sense of tranquility before the chaos of the day sets in.

    As always, my early morning explorations reaffirm my love for Karachi. I am a proud Karachiite, deeply connected to the city's essence and its untold stories. And I hope that others can also appreciate the beauty and heritage that Karachi has to offer.

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